The most important factor is there be NO portion of seal material between the block and upper oil pan, as previously pointed out.

Previous advice about rolling/forming the seal with a hammer handle/wooden dowel/rolling pin is also wise. A section of PVC pipe works well too. When I was working on these 617's every day, I had a rear section of an old crankshaft, cut from a junk core, that only consisted of the two rear main journals. I would install and use as a fitting guide.

I cut the seal flush on one end and leave a slight amount sticking up on the other. Use a one-edged razor blade to trim off any 'threads' of fibers left that could get between the two case halves.

In my opinion, the seal is properly installed when the crank must be 'broken free' from rest with a slight amount of effort before it will turn and should stop abruptly when released. You should NOT have to use a prybar to turn the crankshaft.

The old Pontiac V8's with a rope seal were properly installed when it took 10-15 lbs/ft to break the crank loose from rest.

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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership