At this point the Idler Arm is free, so the separation of its parts can begin. Some discussions recommend removing the air cleaner and loosening it from the top. This did nothing but destroy a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter.








I did everything from underneath, using a 24mm 3/4 drive breaker bar and a similarly sized 1/2" ratchet. A big adjustable also came in handy under certain parts of the effort.












Note the top dirt cap and bottom cover washer with nut.



Then we are at the point where the bearing inserts are friction fit in.



I found it best to use the long bolt at an angle to help pull down the lower bearing/bushing. Using the threaded part slightly inserted allowed for enough grip on the item to help slowly pull it out.



And then drive out the upper one using the same bolt.



It was a good clean bore inside.









It is important to remember the order of the parts that are together on the idler arm. I put them back together for the photo.





Note the washer that is directly under the arm is not necessarily always installed. It is dependent upon the part number for the specific arm itself. This is laid out in the FSM. Its presence is based upon the number shown in the photo. It is likely a good chance that whatever is on there is right at this point...



The bearing/bushings to be used are slightly larger than the hole for the idler arm.






To do the install, I used a bit of Napa Sil-Glyde on the surfaces to help guide them in.





I then utilized the old idler arm bolt, washer and nut to create a tool to help guide the new ones into the bore.







After that, the sandwich of parts can be put back together and torqued appropriately to 88 ft-lb.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)