Quote:
Originally Posted by spdrun
Update:
Fluid in the back of the tank was low, slightly below the level of the nipple where the clutch fluid hose connects. No joy on the clutch working after I topped it up -- feels like there's air in the system. At least this appears to be a hydraulic problem, not an issue with the clutch itself.
I moved it (clutchlessly!) to a parking spot across the street, which buys me a day to deal with it. I'll try to bleed it tomorrow.
A few questions:
(1) What size (inside diameter) Tygon hose should I grab to cross-connect the brake bleeder to the clutch slave nipple?
(2) Are all of the bleeder nipples 7mm (brake, clutch master, clutch slave) or do I need some other size of wrench as well?
(3) Should I use a one-way speed bleeding valve on the clutch master nipple?
(4) Any gotch'yas in removing the under-dash panel to get to the master cylinder?
Thanks!
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The bleed nipple on the clutch slave is 7mm and 9mm on the brake slave. If you want to save some grief get hose that fits over both nipples and use small hose clamps. put a box end wrench of the appropriate size on the nipples, then the hose and clamps. Open them and pump the clutch like crazy by hand, kneeling next too the open driver's door, crawl under, close the nipples. If you dont have clutch yet, repeat the operation. Sometimes you need to use some Teflon tape on the threads of the nipples. You dont need to get to the clutch master at this point, report back. good luck, you shouldn't have a problem.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug
"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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