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Originally Posted by dropnosky
lol, and you lack the ability to express yourself in a non abrasive manner.
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So? If you were willing to learn instead of backtalking things would go much nicer.
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Heres what I understand, obviously never having done it, you would suggest that the op take an expensive, high pressure, specific application pump and use it to replace a far lower pressure pump when there are tons of cheaper options.
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No. Again, you're not understanding the situation or the fuel system operation.
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There are people on this very thread who have used and recommend a a lower psi carter pump, having done it with success. Im one of them.
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Congratulations, you installed a cheap fail-prone pump. I'm happy for you.
People that build/modify things with longevity and knowledge of the fuel system's needs in mind will look for something that does the job.
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If you go in and ask for a fuel pump for a 1996 chevy truck with the 6.5 a the parts counter, you will end up with the perfect carter pump for this emergency application, and it will be 30-60 bucks new.
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There is your problem. The 6.5 is a pile of garbage. A stock OM617 makes only 30% less power with 55% less displacement (57% more HP per CI) 15 years before the 6.5 was ever on paper.
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Originally Posted by dropnosky
so using your logic, the fuel pressure regulation device on a cummins N-14, and the one on a lawn mower are the same? Any regulator will work in any situation?
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No. The N14 and push lawn mowers do not use external pressure regulators. An N14 controls the entire injection process by fuel pressure (PT system), the throttle directly controls the fuel pressure. Lawn mower fuel pressure is controlled by the carb's float and gravity.
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Originally Posted by dropnosky
The pump would jump between 8 and 25 depending on demand
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Thats because he is using a cheap non-dampened (fluid filled) gauge.
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Originally Posted by dropnosky
but there was as yet no power loss.
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Please link to the dyno sheet showing his vehicle's power output. Butt-DynoŽ is not a calibrated system.