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Originally Posted by EvilMoFo
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I see now there is some suggestion to keep the valves from turning, though that was not included in the how-to I read prior to doing the job, but that seems to be an issue for older/high mileage engines so I am not sure that applies to me.
What can I do to get the car running again? Do I get to blindly spin valves until the car is happy again? For some reason, I sense that a compression test is in my future.
Edit: After checking the clearances again today, I went to start it and now it is doing this: 1977 300D failure to start - YouTube |
Rarely on here anymore, but thought I'd reply to help. You want to keep the hexagonal valve spring keeper from rotating, That can rotate the valve and won't allow you to actually "adjust" the valves. Hold that with something, THEN loosen the nut directly on top of that, then loosen the valve cap. Measure between the top of that and the lobe. The lobe should be pointing at the oil feed line when you check and adjust. I've seen people with broken valve guides from people torquing too much to the side of a valve while loosening or tightening. But at least it would start and you'd have an oil burning issue. Most likely something unrelated to the adjustment though. These kind of coincidences happen WAY too often for some reason.
Compression, fuel and air at the correct timing. One of those is missing.
BTW, is it a NA engine? 77 might be. You did adjust for an NA engine if it is, right? But 2k out still shouldn't keep it from running.