Quote:
Originally Posted by Army
Sorry but I don't follow your logic. Are you trying to avoid drip timing an IP by putting in a new chain? You should really check begin of delivery after replacing the chain.
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My logic is as follows:
My timing chain is elongated by ~4 degrees. If my cam timing is off then the IP timing must be off as well, although I haven't done any IP tests to determine this for a fact.
I just figure that the same elongated chain is driving both components' timing, that replacing the chain would fix, or at least improve, the timing of both components. Replace one part, improve the timing of both the cam and IP. The other alternative is to remove the cam sprocket and install a woodruff key to correct the cam timing, then do the IP timing procedures (which I don't really want to attempt).
The other alternative is to do nothing, since my car starts fine cold, and I notice no performance/power issues. However, since the odometer is about to turn over 180,000 miles, and I have no idea if the timing chain has ever ever replaced, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it.
Is there any way to determine if the timing chain has been replaced? Is it possible to rotate the engine slowly and look for some distinguishing aspect that would identify the master link? Weren't the timing chains from the factory continuous (no master link)?
Thanks again to the learned members of the PP forum!