Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Fuel Pressure:
Fuel pressure is readily measured by inserting a gauge between the fuel rail and the Cold Start Injector.
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That is where I measured it. 30PSI
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Injectors and Trigger Points:
Just as in a carbureted motor, a little study of spark plug color and condition can tell a lot. If the plugs indicate fuel-related problems in pairs, the Trigger Points are suspect. These are easily removed from the distributor as a unit for inspection or replacement.
If only one plug indicates a fuel problem, the associated injector may be at fault. First, please see our article on D-Jet Injector Seals in the Archive.
If all the plugs show a problem, it's not likely that all four injectors are going bad at once. Carefully check the wiring, including the grounds grouped together at the rear of the intake manifold. Check for problems in the fuse box -- the ECU senses analog voltages; if there are voltage supply problems to begin with, generalized problems will be the result.
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Trigger point looked clean and shiny
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Throttle Switch:
Check the adjustment of the switch on its shaft and the condition of its contacts by turning on the ignition (don't start the motor) and manually operating the throttle through its full range. You should be able to count exactly 20 clicks from the injectors as you slowly open the throttle.
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Did this, counted 20 clicks, so I guess the ECU can trigger the injectors
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Pressure Sensor:
The simplest mechanical check of a the Pressure Sensor is to unhook its connecting hose from the manifold and suck on it. No air should leak through the diaphragm in the sensor (of course, there are more graceful ways of applying vacuum, if you're both hesitant to do that and want to spend more money).
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Doing this I noticed that the hose by the MAP was loose, so I clipped the end off before I replaced it. This test passed spit spit,,,
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Injectors:
Individually check ECU harness pins 3, 4, 5 and 6 to ground. Resistance should be less than 25 ohms, but not zero.
.
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measured 14.4 ohms
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Trigger Points:
ECU harness pin 12 to 21, then pin 12 to 22 = near 0 ohm continuity on one set, open on the other. Rotate engine 360 degrees and test again. Readings should be opposite.
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tested 12-21 and it was 0, 12-22 was infite
edit 2/5/12 checked again and when 12-21 is infinite 12-22 shows continuity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Throttle Switch:
First check for 20 clicks as outlined above. If no clicks are heard, check wiring continuity between Throttle Switch connector and ECU harness pins 9, 14, 17 and 20 (one connector wire to each harness pin only, of course).
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Really neat, 20 clicks
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Pressure Sensor:
ECU harness pin 7 to 15 = 90 ohms.
ECU harness pin 8 to 10 = 350 ohms.
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measured 90 ohms and 356 ohms 2
/6/12 measured again and now I'm at 324 instead of 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Temp Sensor #2:
ECU harness pin 23 to ground as follows...
Cold motor = roughly 2000 ohms.
Warm motor = well under 1000 ohms.
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Cold motor, Cold shop (50F) measured 3500 ohms
Quote:
Originally Posted by meltedpanda
Temp Sensor #1:
ECU harness pin 1 to 13. At air temp of 85 degrees, F., about 200 ohms; resistance varies inversely with temperature.
If you're sure you're getting an abnormal reading, you've found the bad part (and/or wiring). If you get a normal reading, the wiring is definitely good and the component being checked is probably good. There are failures that won't show up by doing thse checks, particularly involving the Pressure Sensor -- but it's a lot less expensive to try doing them than just throwing new parts at the problem until it goes away.
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did not measure, sensor currently disconnected