Quote:
Originally Posted by hcubed
So, I did this, great tutorial. I wasn't really able to find the 1 drop per second though. No matter where I positioned the pump it was a constant stream as long as I kept pumping the primer (I have the new sealed style). I noticed though that the more advanced I had the pump (towards the engine) the slower the drips would be after I stopped pumping and waited a few seconds. No tutorial I've seen (neither the FSM nor the Haynes manual) explains exactly how the dripping works. Anyway, I pushed my pump all the way advanced (it was pretty much all the way to begin with) and tightened everything up. Didn't make much of a difference with my issue.
There are lots of comments about the difficulty of loosening the mounting nut on the back of the pump. I went in with a standard 13mm combo wrench from the side (not the top as in the tutorial photo), between the two hard oil filter lines. There was just enough room to loosen the nut using both ends (started with the the box end and then went to the open end I think). It only took a few minutes once I was able to see the nut. It only has to be loosened like a 1/4 turn.
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There is no Tutorial on how drip timing works because in words it is not so easy to explain. If you held an Plunger and Barrel in your hand (an Element) and saw how it works it is easy to under stand.
I will try to give a generic explanation. You have one feed port on the side of the Element Barrel. As the Plunger comes up it is closing the Feed Port; but, as long as the Feed Port is open the rising Plunger forces the fuel out of the Feed Port.
When the Plunger rises enough it closes/blocks the Feed port trapping the Fuel in side and the Fuel pushed towards your Injectors; that is the Begin of Injection.
The idea of drip timing is that when the Plunger is making that one drip per second is that the Feed Port is almost closed and it is right at/on the borderline of the Begin of Injection.
Drip Timing Summarized
Before you do any rotating of the Fuel Injection Pump scribe a mark a crossed the Pump Flange to the Engine so you can return the Fuel Injection Pump to the original spot if you run into a problem.
The Engine needs to be rotated Clockwise as viewed from the Crankshaft Damper end of the Engine.
If you are adjusting the timing on an Engine that has been running OK the timing is most likely just a little be retarded/late. What this means is that if the Fuel Injection Pump needs to be moved it is only going to be a tiny amount.
What makes the Movement easier is to remove all of the Fuel Injection Hard Line Tubing.
With Crank Shaft Damper lined up on 24 Degrees BTDC (on the compression stroke) and the Drip Tube in place Pump on the Hand Primer and see what happens.
If the Fuel Injection Pump needs to be rotated loosen the Fuel Injection Pump Flange Nuts and just nudge the Fuel Injection Pump a tiny bit.
Leave it like that and pump on the Hand Primer and count the drips; If the IP moves line it back up with your scribed mark and snug down one Nut enough that you can more the Fuel Injection Pump but at the same time can still pump the Hand Primer.
So basically you move the Fuel Injection Pump a tiny increment; stop; Pump the Hand primer and count the drips when the pressure is up. If it needs to be moved repeat the proceedure.
Rotating the top of the Fuel Injection Pump towards the Engine Block advances the Timing. Moving towards the Fender Well retards the timing.