PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - View Single Post - '99 E300 Transmission Service

sokoloff · #5 03-03-2012, 11:51 AM

Here's a write up I picked up on the transmission service:

> Finally got around to doing the transmission service on our new-to-us 1999
> E300D yesterday and thought that I would write it up for the list and maybe> the FAQs page.
>
> Before I begin, note that the car in question has 161,000 miles on it (159K
> when purchased), and was used 95% or more of the time for a 200+ mile round
> trip commute every day.. When the owner and I were discussing the car prior> to purchase, he mistakenly thought that the transmission had been serviced.
> I don't think (I'm near certain) that it has ever been serviced. Additional
> evidence supporting this belief is that there is a "locking pin" on the
> cover for the dipstick that is originally black but the replacements are a
> medium brown. Mine on the car was black, so I'm assuming that it still had
> the original fluid fill.
>
> Here are the parts for the fluid/filter change. Note that these *may* be
> different for 5 speeds other than the E300D and note that these parts were
> purchased at Park Place in D/FW (Bedford location) so the "list prices" for
> you in another area may be different:
>
> 1. Fluid: 001-989-21-03-10, list $10.00 per liter
> 2. Dipstick: 140-589-15-21-00, list $44.73 (I think that this number
> was inflated because the rest of the list prices match the 5/2003 price list
> that was posted on-list)
> 3. Lock pin: 140-991-00-55, list 0.85
> 4. Torque converter drain plug washer: 007603-010100, list 0.40
> 5. Torque converte drain plug: 000000-000648, list $2.00
> 6. Magnet to insert in bottom of pan: 220-171-00-98, list $2.50
> 7. Filter: 140-277-00-95, list $8.50
> 8. Pan Gasket: 140-271-00-80, list $5.50
> 9. Pan bolts: 140-990-46-01, list 0.90
> 10. Pan bolt stops: 140-271-00-68, list $1.40
>
> Tools needed:
>
> 1. 8 mm 1/4 drive socket on 6" extension for sound encapsulation panel
> removal (there are 3 panels on this car)
> 2. TORX male socket T30 for pan bolts
> 3. Allen socket 5 mm for torque converter drain bolt
> 4. Large pan that will hold 9 quarts or more of fluid [Note that I use a
> large gray restaurant "busing tray" so that I can see the fluid's visual
> condition]
> 5. Two equivalent clear plastic containers for fluid (more on this in the
> instructions). [I used the square "Deli Cat" catfood containers from Sam's]
> 6. Cutting pliers for plastic locking pin removal
> 7. Small throat funnel
>
> Here were the steps that I took to change the fluid and filter:
>
> 1. Cut the locking pin from the dipstick cover, push it out the bottom with
> a screwdriver (or pull it out with pliers from the bottom) and remove the
> cover to insure that fluid could be added after draining the old fluid.
> 2. Rotate torque converter until Allen-headed drain plug is centered in
> opening. [Note that I "walk" the torque converter around with a long
> screwdriver. There are little tangs around the perimeter of the torque
> converter that provide "grab handles" to do this.]
> 3. Drain torque converter. [Note that the converter has much more fluid than
> the pan and it pulses out and will spray outside the receiving pan if you do
> not wathc closely
> 4. Drain pan (5mm drain plug here).
> 5. Remove pan.
> 6. Remove filter (note that the filter is only held in by O-ring tension.
> Also, note that the "top" of the filter has a shark fin that fits into a
> slot in the valve body.
> 7. Let drain for a couple of hours.
> 8. Check pan closely for deposits, noting their size and location. Wash out
> pan with solvent and dry thoroughly.
> 9. Reinstall torque converter drain plug.
> 10. Remove fluid residual from torque converter and bellhousing area.
> 11. Wipe pan gasket mating surface on transmission.
> 12. Install pan gasket on pan.
> 13. Install pan on transmission.
> 14. Clean outside of transmission pan of any residual oil.
> 15. Clean any desired surfaces underneath the car while panels are off.
> 16. Leave car on stands for leak test.
> 17. Drain old fluid into clear container.
> 18. Fill matching container with new fluid up to same level, accounting for
> any leakage of draining old fluid onto floor.
> 19. Fill transmission with about 2/3 of new fluid.
> 20. Bump starter a few times without starting to ensure that there is
> nothing obstructing engine, etc., etc.
> 21. Start car.
> 22. With foot on the brake, run the shifter through each gear a few times.
> 23. Turn off car and repeat 21 & 22.
> 22. Check for leaks.
> 23. Remove car from stands.
> 24. Test drive.
> 25. Check fluid with "fluid level dipstick" (this is its only use and it
> does not stay in the dipstick tube after checking the level) after car is
> sufficiently warmed up [at least 25 miles of driving].
>
> Observations:
>
> 1. The new fluid is a bright cherry red, even brighter than Dextron II.
> 2. The old fluid (at least mine) was a medium/dark color, with a greenish
> tint.
> 3. I have heard the stories that are coming in about the sealed
> transmissions and I anticipated some potential significant deposits of
> clutch material in my pan. There were none. The only material that I found
> was a 1/8" chip, about the thickness of a sheet of paper and about 4 small
> areas (1/4") of "deposits" on the pan which can best be described as
> minutely fine graphite-looking. All of these deposits added together would
> not equal the volume of your little fingernail. I attribute the lack of
> significant deposits in this car, at this mileage, to its duty cycle:
> generally 1.5 - 2 hours driving per trip. I really think that the "mileage
> equivalency" of this 160K car to one with a more "normal" duty cycle is
> probably around 40K or so.
> 4. The transmission *appears* to shift even more smoothly, but that is
> probably my need for a reward for doing the service. The 5 speed
> transmission is a very smooth transmission anyway.
> 5. The valve body for this transmission is *big.* Indeed, it is almost the
> size of the pan.
> 6. This transmission service is little different from any other
> transmission service and is, indeed, easier than prior MB transmissions
> because you don't have two oily screws to take out to remove the filter.
> The removal of the locking pin is probably a bit unnerving.