Quote:
Originally Posted by xweezyx
So back to this thread... I replaced the Radiator and fan clutch, as well as the thermostat and most of the hoses. I thought everything was fine until I got plates for it and took it for a drive. Typically the temperature would stay around the 80 mark until I had to drive slow or idle. The needle would move very erratically between 80 and 110. It never hit the red mark or stayed high for very long. I suspected an air bubble, but I'm pretty sure the system is air free now. I had to bypass the heater core because it was peeing all over my feet. What Ive noticed is the radiator is still luke warm on the side opposite the hoses. The main hoses aren't even really very hot. The Hose that I bypassed the core is very hot though. Visually, there are no signs of overheating, no steam, nothing even really feels abnormally hot. I'm stumped. Now that I'm paying insurance on this thing i gotta get it running right.
My new radiator couldn't be clogged already could it? Maybe the temp sender went bad from bathing in oil for who knows how long. Thanks for any advice.
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Did you flush it out really good before you refilled it? My car makes alot of heat on the heater lines, and some heat at the radiator.
Now that I got my fan clutch thermoswitch replaced and the wiring to the clutch repaired, my car runs at about 110 C on a warm day in traffic idling. The fan clutch kicks in at 110 C, and the temp stays right there. When I'm driving at moderate speeds, there is enough air moving thru the radiator to keep the temp between 80 and 90C.
Also with the new fan hook-up, the car warms up fast. That will be a plus this winter! My old temp sender would bounce the needle now and then. I bought a new sender since I was doing all the other work, and the new one doesent bounce.