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Old 05-28-2012, 10:03 AM
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jay_bob jay_bob is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
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I would not want to "scrape" or hit the contacts with anything abrasive. They are plated brass and if you destroy the plating it's all downhill from there. It will only heat up worse than before which will increase the corrosion, which drives up the resistance and heat even more.

If the clip gets too overheated it will also lose its temper. This will mean that the contact pressure against the fuse will be insufficient and cause heating. Again this causes a downward spiral.

I just replaced all my fuses with the copper/ceramic. Only trouble spot I am having is the infamous #8 for the blower. Mine got hot enough to melt a plastic fuse. (The smell of burning plastic under the dash is the worst panic moment ever.)

On Saturday VStech helped me service the blower motor and it is much smoother now.

Right now on high speed the load side clip for #8 is uncomfortably warm (can't keep my finger on it and it was getting increasingly warmer). On 1 or 2 it's fine. I am going to try Brasso on a q-tip to see if it helps. If not I am going to arrange an ATC style bypass fuse holder with a 16 A fuse.

The factory bypass fuse holder that is available is for 126's not 123's. It is a 30 A link fuse and that is inappropriate for a 123.
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both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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