Quote:
Originally Posted by funola
It is not possible to know if an injector is good or not without pop testing, even if brand spanking new. Ask the dealer if these are recent rebuilds or if they have been sitting on the shelf. How much did they cost?
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I am fairly certain they are recent rebuilds. They were not in stock at the dealer ... they ordered them from Germany. They were supposed to come within a week, but after about 10 days still hadn't come, so the guys at the parts counter called them ... at that point they said they had not shipped yet because they were waiting for the cores to rebuild them (i.e., waiting for someone else's cores I guess). If I'd known it would take that long, I would have just had someone else rebuild mine, but that's all hindsight now. They were something around $75 each. I'm sure if one is defective they would take it back (they have always tried to make sure I get the right parts/parts that work), but I want to be sure it is not air first. I will try the clear tube in place of the cigar hose.
Sorry if I'm being a little dense, but I'm confused about what my right foot should be doing as I crank. Where should I have the throttle while I begin to crank? Should I have it down as I crank, or only start revving up the rpms after (if) it catches? I assume it would not be great for the engine to floor it before oil pressure rises, though I noticed the oil pressure rises as I crank.
I'm debating whether to do anything tonight or just wait until my dad is available as WD40 squirter and air bubble watcher ...
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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