Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbeam
Sixto, you stated:
If you don't see metal sleeves in the radiator hose necks, save your nickels and dimes for a new radiator within 5 years. Likewise, spray the AC condenser from the engine side forward. If you're more industrious than I am, remove the electric auxiliary fan before spraying the condenser.
Im not sure what you mean about these metal sleeves? Im asking because the radiator is out of my 1994 S350D because of a leak. Im wondering if I should have it boiled out and soldered for $125 or purchase a new one for $300. ANything I should look for to tell if my radiator is still in pretty good shape? Not sure if the shop will be totally honest with me?  |
I don't know how to say it differently. The plastic end tanks MB uses get brittle over time, seemingly more quickly when exposed to green coolant. A particularly stressed point is the radiator hose fittings. Quality radiators have a metal sleeve inside the radiator hose fittings to take the brunt of the engine shaking the hoses.
There's not a lot of support for fixing radiators with plastic end tanks. It's a
when rather than
if they're going to fail. If it's leaking, buy a new Behr or Nissen radiator. Some have noted Nissen radiators for the '87 300D need trimming to fit properly. Others have noted that aftermarket Behr radiators have fewer rows than Behr radiators sold by MB dealerships with MB part numbers. It's been a long time since I've read a radiator debate here so sentiments might be different now. I don't know what radiator shop technology exist that can reverse the
embrittlement of radiator plastic.
On a 140 Diesel, check the metal pipe that crosses under the radiator from the coolant reservoir for corrosion. MB put it right where road salt and grime collect. It's part of the pressurized system so when it leaks, it takes all the cooling capacity with it.
Sixto
87 300D