I'm thinking you're overthinking this. Of course we all want a good foundation for our engine builds but as long as the oil clearance is in spec you're good to go.

Mic the crank (or you can have a machine shop do this for you for little money if you're unsure of your skills in this area) and do a little math. You may have to convert the shop's measurements to mm if you're in the US but there are several good online conversion programs that will do this for you. The 70mm bearing shells are 70mm INSTALLED ID so you can simply subtract the measured crank dimension from 70mm and get your actual oil clearance. It just needs to be in spec. Also ask the shop to check for roundness and taper - if it's a good shop they will do this automatically. There are specs for this and again as long as the crank is in tolerance you're good.

No way would I pay dealer prices for bearings. The ones from Pelican are German made and are excellent quality. I paid about $65 for mine.

EDIT: I hope you marked the main caps or kept them in order somehow. They are NOT interchangeable as they're machined in place when the block is align bored in the factory. If you get them mixed up the block will need an align bore (sometimes called "line boring") to get them back in line. I noticed in your pic that the caps are off.

Dan