I cannot imagine that MB changed the mounting holes on the block between years? Seems a lot of work for a simple change. From all my research I didn't see anything pointed out on that...
Anybody else know for sure?
Also, the 10pa17 is only listed as r134a, but it should do r12 without any issues I assume? Since the molecules of r12 are bigger, all the seals shouldn't have a problem...From my understanding that is why when changing from 12 -> 134a, the only reason you change the seals is because A) oil change and B) 134a molecules are smaller, so the seals need to reseal better
Basically my r134a changeover (that was done by PO) is just horrible. It cannot cool in Arizona 115F summers. I understand that is an extreme ambient temperature...I just want to get the best I possibly can. Anything under 90F and I have no problems at all, but as soon as it gets to about 100F, I will still sweat in the car and the high side pressures are in the high 300's. I think its a combination of an old condenser (even though I've coil cleaned it multiple times), old compressor and r134a in a system designed for r12.
EDIT: Looks like the manifold should be indentical since the Nippodenso seal kit says its good for the 15 and 17 series, but NOT the 20:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nippondenso-10PA15-10PA17-AC-Compressor-Gasket-Shaft-Seal-Kit-A-C-ND-Denso-/150785669776