Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320
If you do a complete cylinder head rebuild, you will be rewarded with:
An engine that uses 1 qt every 500 miles.
An engine that may bend rods due to new found power.
Really, having good valve sealing on worn rings will draw lots of oil into the combustion chamber. Not only will oil consumption increase, compression ratio does too......
So, if this engine was running and driving, would you have removed the head for a total rebuild? If not, pull the head, change the prechamber, look the head over for obviously burnt valves and reinstall. ( exhaust valves will always leak a slight bit on a worn motor ) ...
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Great advice. This confirms my gut feeling which is don't fix it if its not broken especially with this of all engines. Bert the Troll making stew, "Just needs a sprinkle of squirrel dung.... Ooh. That is beautifully balanced, that is."
Its a hard call. With luck welding/gluing the prechamber to the removal tool may work.
If no, what do you think of knocking out the prechamber out with wood dowel and hammer from behind once the head is out? No experience, but I am thinking one would check the head out after this to make sure it was not damaged by the removal? If the valve seals are still good, would there be harm in replacing them so that they don't fail later? If the seal or lifter is failing and it is left in place, will the continued detioration likely be slow, or is the engine going to be in trouble anyhow within a few years? I am sure its hard to make a call without actually being hands on with the engine. I'd rather lose the engine now while I am unemployed and have some time on my hands, rather than a year from now.