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Old 06-09-2013, 03:09 AM
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Squiggle Dog Squiggle Dog is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,777
After doing some research on diesel performance, I had decided to remove my ALDA (the governing device on the injection pump that limits the fuel flow and ultimately fails and causes the vehicle to run sluggishly), boost overload switch, and plug the hole in the intake manifold where the banjo bolt used to be. My banjo bolt broke and so did the vacuum tube. I also had the boost overload switch disconnected anyway, and will need the switch and mounting bracket for it out of the way so there is room to properly mount the manual heater valve.

I have a thin 24mm wrench, which I placed on the nut directly under the ALDA. I put an adjustable wrench on the 27mm nut underneath. The 27mm nut on the injection side turned easily and made the ALDA spin with it. It turned out several threads, but it seems like it will not pull out; it just spins.


I tried many different things to get the ALDA loose, but it is really stuck. I am concerned that my ALDA may never come off without drastic measures and possibly damaging the injection pump, so I decided take apart the ALDA to remove the parts inside.

The screws holding the ALDA halves together were stuck as well. They were super tight. I thought I was going to break the bit and wrench I was using, but three of them finally came loose. One of them did not, and I could tell it would never come loose without ruining the screw head, so I used a rotary tool and cut off the corner of the ALDA top. I was then able to pry off the top.


I removed the disk that is in the ALDA, which should have the same effect as removing the ALDA, only there will be no hole to plug. The rubber seal ring on the ALDA top had shrunken anyway, so it wasn't sealing well.


I was actually able to adhere the corner back onto the ALDA with aluminum epoxy. I coated the sealing face of the ALDA lid with Reinzosil and put the top back on without the internal parts. I made sure to coat the screws with anti-seize paste.

I removed the overload protection switch from the firewall since it is no longer useful, and I need the room for when I properly install the manual heat valve (it's supposed to rest against the firewall, but I have it spaced out a bit for now).


I removed my broken and repaired vacuum line as well.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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