Quote:
Originally Posted by DrCherry
The first quart of liquid out of the pan was water. What's next? How much for a rebuilt 190D motor? Am I there yet?
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#1. Drain the cooling system.
#2. Drain the oil.
#3. Get the cylinder head off this weekend.
#4. Clean the oil filter housing.
#5. PRE SOAK the new oil filter before installing.
#6. Fill engine with CHEAP fresh oil.
#7. If there are no cracks and the the cylinder head is not warped:
#8.
Be extreme; cleaning the parting surface of the engine block and cylinder head, until there is no possible trace of old gasket.
#9. Replace the cylinder head gasket.
#10. Install the cylinder head.
#11. Re-fill the cooling system.
#12. Try to start and run the engine.
#13. Run the engine for 3 - 5 minutes, change the oil and filter.
#14. If the oil comes out with no contamination you have done all you can.
#15. If the oil is still contaminated, repeat steps #2, 4, 5, 6, 12, 13.....
If the engine does not develop a true rod KNOCK within Eight hours or less of driving, 95% odds there is no serious damage.
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If time,
money and work space is not an issue, I would consider:
* Pull the engine.
* Remove the cylinder head for cleaning, testing, rebuild or replacement.
* Flush the engine oil galleries, the procedure is described in this thread
1992 300D 2.5 vacuum pump "FAILURE" ball bearings fell into timing chain
* Replace the rod and main bearings, again the procedure is described in this thread
1992 300D 2.5 vacuum pump "FAILURE" ball bearings fell into timing chain
Essentially this would roll back 50% of the engine wear factors at least 40 years.
NOTE: The remaining prime wear factors are rings, wrist pins, cylinder sleeves.
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