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Thanks funola and all for this very useful post and to whunter for refreshing it. I replaced the passenger's lower ball joint today, so it was very helpful. I add my experience.
On the driver's side, I just replaced the torn boot w/ a polyurethane one (Energy Suspension 13024) I had for my Mopars and repacked since that one had negligible play. The passenger's side one was open, totally dry, and ~1/4" play (ready to pop out). I used a pickle-fork to disconnect the ball joint stud from the LCA. I first tried the little air-tool one shown, but it was a bit wide (1") and the tips hit the spindle. I bought the 15/16" silver one ($10 O'Reilly's) and cut the tips shorter (but not enough). I added a thick washer w/ cut-out I have used as a spacer before, then it didn't bottom out and I was able to pop it fairly easy.
To separate the ball-joint from the spindle, I first wasted time trying a big puller to press it out in the car, but nothing for the puller to grab without getting cocked. I disconnected the spindle from the upper ball joint using the small puller shown in the photo, which worked well. Rather than dig a hole, I placed the top of the spindle on an old brake pad on the driveway (held w/ my feet) and used a framing hammer. I first hit the bottom of the ball joint directly, then added a 32 mm socket as it started to recess. I sprayed WD-40. I didn't have to swing real hard, just similar to driving a 16 penny nail in 2 blows. It didn't take long, but this is a CA car.
I bought an Autozone Duralast FA1603 ball joint ($23). The box said "Made in Taiwan" PN D10358 0A2. It is 1.784"D at the shoulder vs 1.768"D for the original, though starts out smaller. It is deeper past the shoulder, so protrudes more when installed. I considered installing a grease port, but I think most mechanics today use a needle tip to sneak in under the edge of the grease seal. I found much lower prices on the web (even Beck/Arnley), but couldn't wait, plus got Autozone's Ball-Joint Press "loaner".
Like most reported, pressing the new one in was very hard (>1 hr). I have a shop press, but no attachments to get around the spindle arm. I may buy some thick steel pipe and cut a slot to make a tool (like ebay one), since the C-clamp press proved difficult. The 3 tubes in the kit were too long (as others found), and I didn't want to make a custom tube like Rollguy did. Instead, I just let the end of the C-clamp rest directly on the ball-joint (w/o boot) as shown. I also started with the screw-side anvil flush against the bottom of the spindle. Don't fuss with spacer tubes until you get it flush (will be a while). You cannot just crank and forget. The stars must align to get it in. I greased it since no concern it would ever work loose. As I pressed, I constantly took it out of the press to see how it was cocking. I had to re-adjust to push on the other side more several times. I also tried beating the spindle sides with 2 hammers after each crank, which seemed to help slightly.
When I got the splines about halfway in, I seemed to have reached the limit of my arms and the press. I used a 1/2" breaker bar 19"L and a giant pipe wrench on the C-clamp body (otherwise vise would have broken off my wooden shelf). I applied maybe 300 ft-lbf to the screw. They could have used a finer screw, but I could see the body of the C-clamp bend as I unloaded it, so it was probably near its elastic limit already. I then applied heat from a propane torch to the thin part of the spindle, until ~150 F. It was too cold to get more flow from the bottle. That seemed to help and I was able to get it flush to the bottom fairly soon. I then add a spacer on the bottom so it could protrude and seated the shoulder. I cleaned and painted the spindle when done. I will install a polyurethane boot instead of the rubber one that came with it, and pack it well.
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