Quote:
Originally Posted by indybenz
So far I have:
1. bled brakes until new fluid came out at each caliper
2. drained coolant and added new coolant (not MB, just whatever 50/50 mix)
3. changed oil/filter
4. added fresh diesel (to whatever garbage was in the tank) and ran it using the makeshift 5 gal plastic tank rather than the stock one
5. changed fuel filter (primary was fine, canister was replaced)
6. purchased B2 piston (trans filter/gasket also) to hopefully remedy tranny issues
7. I plan on doing a valve adjustment, timing chain check, and compression test
8. visually (not with a pic or anything yet) inspected the 'common' rust areas and structurally it seems sound. At least it's 65% better than the car I'm driving now...which says something but not much ;-)
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2. You should use Zerex G-05, available from Napa for like $12-15 per gallon. I think you only need two. Its the same as the MB stuff.
5. You should probably replace that filter after like 500 miles, it'll probably be stuck up with whatever is in the tank. Might also want/need to change/clean the tank stainer.
6. There is also a spring kit available that might help with whatever issues you are having. Superior Transmissions make it I believe.
8. Most common areas:
1) Sway Bar Exit Holes
2) Under batter/fuse box area
3) Subframe/body tube/horn area
4) Jack points
5) Rear Wheel wells
6) Under rear window in trunk
9. you said window seals were shot on the front /back? If you have the rear replaced, use MB for the seal, not aftermarket.