+1 on the AFM

I've removed them with no ill effects. I wanted to be sure after 30 years the thing still works and wasn't getting sticky half open or closed. or the spring adding too much restriction trying to close it against the sucking of air into the engine.

With the intake to the ALDA, the engine runs like it wants freedom and Autobahn.

I'm liking the clean look more and more. I'm considering going to electric pump for power steering with a speed sensitive switch/relay on the pump to only activate it at 1) after a tap from the brake light switch and condition 2) less than 10 mph from a tap of one of the ABS sensors. May have to add a dedicated speed sensor in order to not throw the ABS into any issues. I wonder if the speed speed could be measured with a low enough impedance to still throw a triggering circuit and at the same time have enough juice for the speedometer? Any electrical guys know?

This may be a simpler way on the electric power steering: Buy a cheap off the shelf with a relay harness with a 10 second ON activation timer built in. Have it trigger on when one of the micro switches in the clock spring are triggered which cut off the blinkers by some angle on the wheel. Then if you were doing any steering or paralell parking you would have power steering pressure on, but never on with cruising or highway driving. That should be pretty easy to tap into that signal in several places in the easier to access wiring under the foot kick panel.

I would also like to use electric vacuum pump with hysteresis, then use a Vacuum pump gasket as a template to cut some sheet metal for a Vacuum pump blocking plate.

I also think that the belt tensioner could be eleminated. It would make installing and removing the belt more of a hassle, but the belt could route in a simple circle crankshaft, A/C comp, water pump, alternator, back to crank. If you have proper working electric fans and don't sit stuck in traffic every day then you really never need the mechanical fan and clutch either. I've been running fine with just the temperature sensitive and a/c sensitive electric fans on my 87, 89, and 99 for years now thru summers in the deep south.

This would eliminate the parasitic drain of the vacuum pump, reduce stress/vibration/thumping/wear metal on the timing chain, timing advance device, and injector pump.


Summary of parts eliminated: EGR valve, EGR pipe, EGR micro switches, EGR module, EGR switch-over valves, EGR vacuum lines, AFM and/or MAF (diode/resistor mod on the 98/00), solenoids, cut off switches, vacuum amplifier, intake choke, intake choke vacuum lines, intake choke actuation rod, intake choke vacuum solenoid, vacuum pump (blocking plate and gasket installed), power steering pump/pulley (electric used), mechanical fan, mechanical fan clutch, belt tensioner, belt tensioner shock, belt tentioner spring, belt tensioner pulley.

Mods: electric vacuum with hysteresis, electric power steering with brake light switch and low speed relay activation, shorter serpentine belt.

Parasitic engine load reduction: mechanical vacuum pumping action for vacuum, mechanical losses in reciprocating mass and friction on IP timing device cam, belt tensioner, power steering pump

Benefits: Clean front of engine, clean rear of engine, clean sides of engine, easier vacuum diagnostics, no grenading vacuum pump bearings, less engine wear, extremely quiet micro fuel sipping idle, fewer vacuum leak sources, $50 Dorman vacuum pump from any local autoparts store.

Parts list: DORMAN 904214 (904-214), self made sheet metal blocking plate from vacuum pump gasket template, 1992 Toyota MR2 electric power steering pump, misc wiring, fuses, relays, hose fittings, shorter serpentine belt


Summary: more reliable, more MPG, cheaper in the long run, much cleaner engine bay, saves the environment from clean/green diesel with fewer CO/CO2/hydrocarbon emissions.