The oil cooler lines will probably be a stinker to remove - at least mine were. Given the use mine will see I decided to bypass the cooler with a loop of high pressure hydraulic line but if you want to run the cooler (a good idea if you plan to drive it on the street) you may want to simply cut the lines and have new ones made up as the factory lines likely won't go where you need them anyhow.

On the shutdown - this was a real PITA for mine as the engine has to shut down when the safety inspector flips the external battery power switch. The main thing to remember is that you have to APPLY vacuum for the shut-down to work which to me is counter-intuitive. If you use a solenoid it needs to be a 3-port or if you go with a valve it needs to be a 3 port. This allows the vacuum to bleed off when you remove it from the shut-down port on the IP. The third port will allow the vacuum to bleed to atmosphere when you stop shutting off the engine. Check the plumbing diagram of your 3 port and you can figure out how to plumb it - the ports may vary by manufacturer so I won't post my "which port is which" diagram.

I'm deleting the engine-mounted vacuum pump (Greazzer has a design for a plate to to this - mine should arrive in a day or two) and I have a VW pump in place. If all you need is vacuum for shut-down the engine pump has way more output than you need.

If you check my build thread I'm pretty sure I posted details of how I built mine but yours can be a lot simpler as you don't have to get past the track safety inspectors.

Dan