Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY
Once vibration starts, the engine will try to loose anything and everything bolted to it. If any one bolt got loose, it starts a chain reaction and does not stop until the entire compressor and bracket is dragging on the ground. It is very important to periodically inspect and tighten the fasteners on this system. I hate to say it, but if you had to pound in the 1/2" bolt, it will never come out if it breaks again. If you can source another factory (12mm X ?) bolt and all metal lock nut, that would be best. If the plate brace is broken at the bend, I suggest you either get it welded SOON, or remove the belt until you get a replacement. The brace has to be there, and be intact or the same thing will happen again (or worse). The best way to remove the belt (actually relocating it intact) is to rout it around the crank pulley and up to and around the PS pump. You can just zip tie it so it does not rub on anything. When you are ready to use the belt again, just cut the ties and rout the belt back down around the crank pulley and on the compressor.....Rich
|
I didn't have to hit the bolt very hard to get it in the bracket. It was more along the lines of getting past the misalignment of the bracket and engine because the bolt was not there to keep the two aligned. Once I loosened the bracket, the bolt slid through pretty easily.
I will look into repairing the supporting bracket. I have a co-worker/buddy who does welding on the side. Maybe he can fix it up for me.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video -
http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge