Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe
EDSBO - not trying to be critical, but you might want to upgrade out of the W210 MB diesel to a W211 05/06 I6 CDI sedan? The W211 fits my size body in more comfort in the driver's seat, than the W210 - FWIW.
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I respect your opinions and have considered moving up to an even newer model but like you found a few deal killers. The oil cooler in the middle of the "V" requiring everything up there including I believe the turbo to be removed. I have heard that it is uncertain whether the fix will be temporary or whether it will have to be done regularly.
Have alos read about a "black death" where combustion gasses blow by the injector threads, erode the head and you then require a new head at even greater expense.
I have also heard rumours about balancing shafts regularly going out destroying the engine. I have not perused this as the previous two defects run $4,000 to $6,000 or more and thus are deal killers.
2005 or 2006 are very tempting. 2007 and newer could be trouble on top of trouble
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olivier
I finally find out it was a fuse in the cabin that was not connecting properly... The fuse was OK but a little corroded and I can only guess the connections inside the module would have been the same.
After wiggling the new fuse in and a bit of WD40 on the fuse all is bak to normal and I never had the light warning again.
Might want to try that?
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A good tip but I have already taken each fuse out from the light switch which is accessible from the drivers side of the dash with the access pane removed.
I removed them, hit them with a shot of Caig DetoxIT D5 and cleaned them with a paper towel. They all looked good but I am trying to eliminate everything possible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech
A similar situation I went thru with my personal car, '99 E300 around three years ago was I was getting a lamp defective light for a bit. Just like in your case, no lights were out. It was indeed the harness for the parking lights. Absolutely worth checking. Now that this issue is more known as these cars have aged, I check them when I replace the bulbs to inspect the condition.
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Can you be a bit more specific please?
Tonight I removed the passenger's side inner wheel well liner and checked the side marker which I am suspect of but could only get the Light Defective once and it just may have been random, couldn't get it to go on again once reset.
I also took the covers off of the back of both head headlights and all connections look good, no burning, discoloration and everything looks secure.
The tabs have always been broken off the H6W bulb holders and I use a bit of foam rubber to hold them in place once the covers are re-latched.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320
A few things.
Make sure the bulbs are the exact trade number / wattage as original.
Bulbs wear out before they burn out. The filament starts to loose tungsten and gets progressively thinner, I haven't checked resistance but I'd expect it to go up as the bulb ages. Also, a filament can have a break, the broken strand will flop about and sometimes reattach allowing the bulb to light up again.
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I am close to replacing all bulbs again with matching pairs.
For additional information some times when the Light Defective meaasge first comes on and I hit the R button it immediately, within a second comes back and I can hot it 7 or 8 times in as many seconds and have the warning come back. Yet, when I stop the car and do a walk around all are lit and upon hitting the R it will stay off.