Haha. There's a thread around here of a guy that replaced his front springs only to find out how much to rear were sagging. Looked like an old Impala on hydraulics. Motivated me to do the rear first.

Going off topic again.

If you (op) replaces balljoints or tie rod ends its important to buy quality. You should notice a drastic price spread. The difference being the cheep ones are metal on metal contact, the better have a coating in between (Teflon?)

Looking at grease zerks will give backwards results. The cheap have a grease option, the better usually don't as there isn't metal contact in there and the coating lasts long enough.

That being said, I have done the cheap ones on a 90 4Runner with a 3.0 motor and massive rust. Just a roller. I kept the ball joints greased and had to install zerks on the tie rod ends. I would bury that truck to the hood in river crossings and grease regularly.

Prob not helpful here, but I RTV'd the outside of the hub and made sure the inner seals were good. And kept the backing plate drain holes clean.


What's the test for upper ball joints? I remember lower is prying up on the tire but to check the upper you pry on the control arm (up)? Since it will be resting on the ball?

Does his car have uppers? Lol.