Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetmugg
It is damp to the point of having condensation under the hood of the car. It's a toxic environment for an automobile.
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Steve,
Don't use ether or starting fluid; there is a very slight but real risk of cracking a pre-chamber.
The water is a big problem. As already mentioned, there is almost certainly water in the fuel tank and in the oil sump. I'm also concerned that water may have condensed inside the cylinder walls and started rusting there.
The water in the oil sump may not need to be addressed yet, an interim measure would be to drain a quart out of the sump (and that should also drain out the water in the bottom) and then replace with fresh oil. I would not invest further in an oil change until after you've got the engine started and have an idea of the overall health of the engine.
As already suggested, change the fuel filters, fill the new main filter with clean fresh fuel. In the engine bay, set up a temporary fuel source and run the supply and return lines into that. Watch for water coming out of the return line initially - may want to put the return line in a separate container so you don't immediately contaminate your new fuel source with water.
After that, pump the accelerator pedal a time or two to make sure the fuel rack is free in the injection pump. I'd recommend that you hold the accel. pedal to the floor while you crank the starter over. Perhaps leave the injector lines loose while doing this to get better flow from the hard lines. The fuel leaking from the hard lines at the injectors will never really squirt out, it needs to build pressure against the injector to get that squirt.
If the block heater and cord are present, you can plug those in to help build heat.
Worst case scenario: Pull start the car. The procedure is in the owner's manual.