I had my W124 aligned at a shop where the tech was very eager to read the FSM copies I had for the car.

he picked up one point that almost all other descriptions throw out. - set toe to zero...

he was constantly adjusting the toe to zero anytime he was changing the control arm bolt settings, this was the control point for everything as due to the insane caster angle of these cars the wheel drops outwards when turned out (heavy camber change) and vice versa for inward.

I took my W210 to the same person (W210 is a bit similar to W123 setup but with less caster) - he did a good job on it too. He did keep the W124 data sheet that I printed and also asked for copies for the W210 spec sheet, his claim was that the sheet provides more information than the alignment rack manufacturer does in their cars listing.

The idea was to set toe as last adjustment - do the camber/caster bugaboo at zero toe - once everything is set dial in the toe (install spread bar or make your own or dial in a smidge more toe) - and the car will be in good alignment.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)