Good info. I have done alignments myself on my two 300D's and they go straight w/ hands off the wheel and no uneven tire wear. Toe-in is the most critical, and can be done w/ a tape measure aft-front distance. Easiest if your front tires have straight channels. Shoot for 1/8" toe-in, or 1/16" if you know the parts are all new and tight.

Camber is mostly a personal preference. I go for a slight lean-in at the tops. I place a carpenter's level against the bottom tire, held vertical (per bubble) and subtract difference in horizontal gap to top and bottom of wheel rim. Tuners go with extreme negative camber (lean in) for that Indy-car look. Helps w/ cornering, but wears the tires more.

I never touch caster, but would if I ever replaced the guide rod pivots. Caster is the "shopping-cart wheel" effect, that help the wheels follow the motion.