I haven't noticed the engine shocks do much about the shaky idle. Some here speculate they were more to damp the shut-down shake. No need to buy a $95 top mount. Just scrape out the old rubber and fill w/ black polyurethane caulk (for gutters) like I did.

It is said that the later rack damper bolt (gold?) in say a 1985 works stronger. I swapped one in once and didn't notice a difference. My experience is similar. If you screw it out almost all the way, you notice an increased shaking, but going in a bit you get all the effect you will see pretty early. You might find a thinner jam nut to allow screwing it in a little more, but I doubt it would help. Yes, there is oil inside the injection pump. Put a tiny clear filter on the vacuum line to your "stop valve" so you can see when its diaphragm fails, before you suck that oil all the way to the key switch where it drips on your foot.

First step - adjust the valves. These cars have "solid lifters", not the "hydraulic" self-adjusters on most engines, and need periodic adjustment. Ask anyone who has a pre-1980 Chrysler "slant six". If a valve isn't closing fully, you won't get good compression.

One guy here will test and rebuild your injectors cheap, if you can afford the down time. I don't think the pop pressure matters as much as having a good spray pattern. I found 3 of the 5 in my 1984 were 1600 psig non-turbo ones, but swapping them didn't noticeably change how the engine ran.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans