Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345
Just in case other things do not repair the issue.
If the valves required quite a bit of adjustment to get them right when you did them. You might want to check that the clearances are still there. I doubt this is a problem but is a slight possibility.
You could have lost some old deposits on the face of a valve then closing the lash gap or gaps. Especially on the highway run.
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Interesting theory... The valves did require adjustment, but I don't recall it being that bad. I'll likely leave the valve cover on for now, but will keep this in mind if the other diagnostics don't pan out. Like I said, as the engine didn't seem to work any harder on that highway run than in the previous week of driving, I'm hesistant to see that as a source of my problem. But, as that 15 minute highway trip MAY have been to blame, I mention it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345
Also when you are loosening each injector line to bleed them. Pay attention to the sound of the engine. You are listening for any cylinder that does not make the engine drop in rotations as much as the others when doing this. I think you already know this though.
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I think someone already mentioned that, but it bears repeating.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345
Hopefully it is just getting something like too much air in the fuel though. The 616 is a much easier engine to check out than the turbo 617s in many ways.
Since it ran really well initially I do not expect there is much really wrong.
Incidentally, glad to see another rocket ship hitting the road again. We 240d owners seem to have one end of the automotive speed and performance spectrum solidly tied down.
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Yeah, I'm thinking (and hoping) based on what I'm seeing that the engine is just sucking air. Like I said, I drove it 200 miles or so before this happened. I definitely had the ENGINE up to speed before the highway run. The only reason I delayed a highway run until then was that the alignment was way off. I had the car aligned after work on Monday and that's when this (unrelated) problem started.
Past experience tells me not to drive it until I fix it, though, as (knowing my luck) it will quickly get worse and strand me. As I have other cars, there's no reason to take that risk. So, I'm hoping that's all this is. If it's NOT, though, then I want a solid plan for diagnostics.
Quote:
Originally Posted by funola
Was the brand new copper washer the correct part # or something close from the autoparts store? I'd use the old OE washer over the incorrect part by cleaning it up (anneal with heat then 400 grit wet/dry paper). Put some magnifying glass on and inspect all mating surfaces and clean them up if necessary.
edit: I missed that you wrote that the copper washer was the incorrect one.
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The question is, what WOULD be the correct part number on that? Peach/Pelican doesn't seem to list it.
Also, it's a sealing washer. My gut tells me that we don't really need the official Mercedes part on this (then again... mine is still leaking).
So, like I said, my plan for tomorrow is to pull and anneal the washer before reinstalling it and take it from there.