I found a reference to removing the chrome rack on the CD (the Haynes manual has nothing on the subject) and it is indeed bolted down and requires partial removal of the headliner. There is nothing that I could find on the CD about removing the rub strips. It could be that they do pop off like the side protective strips but in checking mine they are pretty soild, leading me to guess that they might in fact be bolted. I'd love to know for future reference. Interestingly, every now and then I see a wagon without the rub strips, just the chrome rack. By the way, I agree with you Leathermang, I think the chrome rack can be easily masked and painted around. It's just the rub strips that are a potential problem. Anyone who knows for sure how those are attached please chime in.

FYI, the info on removing the rack is under section 77 Sliding Roof.
The actual pages are under section 77-500.

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LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold