First thing - on a 126, the vacuum circuit for the locks is independent of the rest of the vacuum systems. No vacuum line for the locks goes near the dash except at the kick panels.

Sounds like you knocked the main line to the ACC vacuum switch bank. You might be able to get to it through the ashtray, radio, ACC panel cavity but if you don't know the system well enough to feel your way, you're better off getting to it the right way.

Remove the carpet in the passenger footwell. Remove the right kick panel. Pull towards the center of the car then towards the rear. Lower the passenger lower dash panel. I think it's 3 screws hidden in the carpeting right under the glove box, a screw hidden by the kick panel (now visible) and a plastic quick release screw that takes a quarter turn by the transmission hump. The lower dash panel should come off now with some AC ducting. Remove one screw in the carpet at the forward edge of the transmission hump side panel. Pull the panel forward to release the clips at the rear end then move it out of the way.

You'll see a black vertical strip with 6 or 7 vacuum lines leading to it. The vacuum line on top is the feed. I suspect that's what got knocked loose when you were replacing the octopus bulb. If not, find the bad one with the MightyVac. A couple of them have crossed lines so if you find one that leaks, plug the others and try again or trace it to the actuator and check downstream of the splitter.

There are no vacuum lines connected to the ACC control panel per se. There are vacuum lines that run across the dash right behind the ACC control panel in the area of the octopus.

Check all the fuses before futzing with the door lock system. Check means pull it out and tug on the terminals. With age, the fuses develop cracks you can't see when they're in place. If you haven't changed the fuses in 10 years, repleace all of them now regardless of how they look. You're talking under $3 from FastLane.

For the locks, the blue wire should see +12V when you lock the driver's door by key or manually, the yellow wire should see +12V when you unlock the driver's door by key or manually. If that doesn't happen, you have a bad switch or a bad wire.

If the pump is getting power, you should feel vacuum at the outlet when locking and pressure when unlocking.

Pull a vacuum on the actuators from the trunk. If the doors lock, it's pretty safe to say there's enough system integrity that they'll also unlock. If they don't unlock, happy hunting for the bad actuator.

I hope this helps.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD