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Old 06-25-2016, 07:40 PM
Adriel Adriel is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
This is yet another reason i do NOT RECOMMEND charging a fresh system from cans...

After the leak check is confirmed tight, then the vacuum is pulled, 10 oz isnt enough refrigerant to really break vacuum... and how are you vacuuming the system, then attaching a can? Vacuum needs to be treated with respect... itll pull in moisture if you swap cans, and hoses from the vacuum...

Itll pull in air and moisture if you disconnect hoses from vacuum...

A hard vacuum, then dumping in an entire can into the liquid side WITH THE COMPRESSOR OFF... would get oil into the condenser... then after pressures equalized, you could start the compressor and slowly flow the oil and refrigerant into the low side...
John, thank you so very much for the help!

Hmmm, I am confused...

Would 16 ounces of R134a be better? I have a 16 ounce can of the mid grade that could use if it will avoid moister draw.

Just so clear, how much R134a?

The R4 has 6 to 8 ounces distributed, where Sanden has it specified as 5 in the compressor and 1 ounce in the drier.


If I am understanding correctly, proceed as follows:
1 ounce of oil in the condenser
1 ounce in the drier
19 ounce can with about 2 ounces of oil and 16 ounces of R134a in the high side without the compressor running
Two 12 ounce cans with 1.5 ounces of oil in the low side with the compressor running


This gives a total of 36 ounces of R134a and no more than 7 ounces of oil.

Or, can skip the drier (which accumulates extra oil) and then only 6 ounces.
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