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Old 08-16-2016, 02:50 PM
BillGrissom BillGrissom is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,147
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demothen View Post
Have you tried running it back in now that it's loose? Keep soaking it with penetrating oil too.
Yes, once you unscrew it slightly, keep going back and forth, keeping the threads wet w/ penetrating oil. That will help flush out the rust that is jamming the threads. Rapping on the end of the bolt can help too, by producing a hydro-shock to flush rust, once it is filled w/ oil. I use a 17 mm box wrench on that bottom bolt, and rap the wrench with a hammer to get it started. If really stuck, you can buy a stubby "knock wrench" that has a place for hammering. An air impact wrench is the same idea (anyone try HF's 700 ft-lbf "Earthquake" model?). Coat the threads w/ anti-sieze when re-installing, as I do anywhere steel and aluminum contact.

At least you don't have a 1985 CA 300D. First time I replaced the alternator was frustrating, trying to work wrenches around the rear heat shield, EGR, and AC tube. Now that the EGR valve is off and the AC high-pressure re-routed straight to the condenser, it is easy to get at the bolts. For others, note that the front nut is welded to the alternator bracket, so you might get frustrated when your wrench can't turn it.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
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