I checked out the clutch slave after a few days in the vinegar and I wouldn't say it was "clean" but definitely better than it was. It had a few significant low spots when you ran your finger through it. So here is my refined method of repairing pitting and has even worked on plated cylinders. after multiple master,slave cylinder and even a brake caliper repair that hasn't had any failures.

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!

I may be a crazy person driving around with jb weld in his hydraulic cylinders but if you do this and don't do it right and it doesn't work don't blame me. If it's a 24$ cylinder replace it. I have 350$ three piston girlings I repaired and this slave is 145 shipped.

First get it clean of any oils or brake fluid. You will need some thin sheet metal, a hose clamp that will get smaller than the cylinder to be repaired, a pair o needle nose plyers and a chisel about a half or 3/4 inch wide with nice machined sides worked great as a kind of spatula. Plus a wheel cylinder hone. I first used beer cans but they are a little too thin. This time I used a b-12 chemtool fuel system cleaner can/bottle thing. It's like a can with a twist top very similar to a seafoam one. I cut the bottom off with a dremel cutoff wheel them cut a piece about four inches long from the barrel that was left. Next time I may leave it a little longer. The I split the tube I had now being carefully to cut it straight. The reason for the cutoff wheel is to not distort the edges of the metal. I then carefully sanded all the edges flat and block sanded the edge that would be on the outside. Next you grab the side not carefully sanded to have a straight edge, and coil the split tube up by holding it with leather work gloves and twisting the pliers. You want to bend a piece of the inside part 90 degeee so you have a good spot to regrab it to wind it up. Hold it and twist the inside piece so it's basically a long wound up spring small enough to fit inside the cylinder and put the hose clamp on it.hit the cylinder with the hone a little but don't go crazy and use some brake fluid. Brake clean and wipe out the cylinder a couple times to be sure it's good and clean. Then mix up your jb weld. I put a piece of pipe cleaner in the bleed and input hole so no stray jb ended up in them. Then put some jb weld in the low spots you have found. Insert the coiled up piece into the cylinder past where any damage is and release the hose clamp. You can now grab the inside of the coil by the edge you bent and turn it in same direction as winding it up. It wil spin around in the cylinder and smear the jb weld all around. The straight edge you made will push it down into the low spots and also keep it very thin on the rest which is key to it not bieng a nightmare to get to a perfect smooth surface. After spinning it around a couple times, Turn the coil so the straight edge just passes your biggest problem area because it will leave a little extra in the overlap area. After about an hour I grabbed the coil again and wiund it till the thing came loose from the jb weld and spun it a couple times. I left it in there for a couple hours. I took it out now by winding it up while pulling also. You don't want to let a corner scratch your jb surface so be careful I would test this removal out before any jb is put in so you have an idea what it's gonna do. Then I used the chisel and carefully inserted it in and making sure it stayed flat I scraped the wall all the way around to remove any heavy areas on the undamaged parts. There will be a nice bead of jb left on the side of the chisel you can carefully push back in low spots, like it's a spatula, if you screw it up. I let it sit a couple more hours now. I lubed the hone stones with wd but brake fluid will work to, then gave it a quick hone to get some extra jb off the walls before it's fully set. You could maybe get away with not doing this but gets it gets Back close to the original metal in the good parts way easier. But don't go too far yet. After it sits at least 14-24 hours go back and hone it again with brake fluid always keeping the hone moving in and out to get a even surface. All that should be left in there is what is filling in damaged areas.

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