Been a while since I did it, so I might be FOS. You do know that a diesel is a 4-stroke, so think like a gas engine. Instead of a spark, it shoots a pulse of fuel. This happens every other stroke. You need to look for the squirt on the compression stroke. Sounds like you have the valve cover off, so watch the #1 cam lobes to see when they are rotating away from the head, i.e. both valves closed, starting the compression stroke.

Don't get hung-up on counting drips. You are looking for the point where the #1 IP cylinder closes off (to start squirting fuel, i.e. "start of delivery"). Before that, fuel will flow thru freely as you work the primer pump. As the port closes, the flow will suddenly stop (within ~1 deg crank). I don't fool w/ the drip tube, but just watch the fuel flow up out of the #1 delivery port (putput check valve guts removed). I set both my OM617 to 27 deg BTDC for supposedly better power and mileage, though can't say I noticed a difference.

Regardless, 27 deg gives you leeway for future chain stretch. By the same token, I also measured 2-3 deg delay in the camshaft so installed a ~4 deg offset key. It is easy to do while in there. Just stuff rags so you don't drop anything down the chain opening, and bungee-cord the sprocket to the hood to keep the chain tight. I don't think it can jump a tooth if you let it loosen, but no sense tempting fate. Good time to change the tensioner rail, especially the chain has worn grooves in yours. They aren't expensive. But, I recall you must pull out the lower pivot-pin, which I probably did w/ radiator out, and maybe crank damper off (then change front crank seal). So pick your battles wisely.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans