The rear brake brackets are done. All welded on one side and i'm gonna get the other side saturday i hope. then pop the new bushings in and reassemble the rear subframe. my goal is to get the completed subframe back in this weekend. I am going to cut a coil from my rear spring and bend the last coil a little to replicate how its shaped originally for the time being. I don't want to lower it too much in the rear yet. I've been kinda leaning towards getting the car set up to be a decent drift car lately so i have to keep the rear camber in check. they camber in bad if lowered too much. I'm goping to shorten the rear sway bar arms to increase satiffness. I have some spring clamps if i need to get the rear lower in a hurry at the event. I am trying to have it drivable for a september 9 drift event in dover. I know its really not going to be great in its first set up but its last event of the year so it will help me get an idea of where i really have to go with the setup this winter.
I've been researching front suspension geometry and effects lowering the car with shorter springs has on the camber curve and roll center. on the front i'm planning on two coils removed and i have seen the results on a 450sl. i'm going to run the suspension through its range and see where everything ends up when the car is lowered. I believe that once lowered the camber curve is going to be close to the end of its effective range and will need to be adjusted to keep handling predictable. I'm going to look at the effect of using a taller ball joint on the bottom control arm. A chevy Joint with three different lengths can be adapted. It will get the lower control arm back to where the engineers intended. similar to the effect a lowering spindle would have. it will also change the angle of the upper arm increasing camber gain with body roll. check this thread out for a little more info on that.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/performance-paddock/388150-r-c-107-w114-w115-lower-ball-joint-size.html#post3742054