Couple of posts on this one as recently as a week ago.
I've done this procedure, but you must be extremely careful with the removal of the cluster.
Purchase the dash removal tools (available at FastLane for $15) of the dealer. You can fabricate your own (coat hanger with a sharp hool at the ends), but the tools are a lot easier to use when performing the operation, as it will take some leverage to do so.
First disconnect the battery...in the trunk.
The cluster is a press fit, not bolted on, so it just needs to be pulled out to gain access to the bulbs in the rear.
Insert the tools at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions between the cluster and the dash seam. Rotate the tools so that the hooks will be perpendicular to the cluster lip. There are serrated edges on the cluster housing that allow the tools to anchor themselves as you pull the cluster out.
Pull one side a bit, then the other. Take your time. Any damage you incur will be expensive!!! I had one of my tools slip once and catch the gauge glass, cracking it in half. A trip to the dealer and $374!!!
There are a couple of harnesses to disconnect and then the complete unit can be removed from the dash.
The bulbs are in a self-contained housing. To remove, just twist and pull. Your car takes either the 2W (illumination and turn signals) or 1.2W (dash warning lamps). They are a little tough to find anywhere else but at the dealer...expect to pay up to $6 for these little jobbies!
Good luck!