|
thanks,
i’m not following everything you are saying, but i think most of it.
the bottom nut is not what is preventing me from getting the correct clearance. the bottom but can go much further down than needed. the top nut can only go down so much before it sticks and spins the entire valve, spring and all. i tried to spread the 2 nuts as far as possible to see stripped threads, but did not see any, there is maybe small chance it is stripped where i could not see, but more likely i think the top nut is going as deep as it can, hitting the valve, i think that’s what people are calling bottoming out.
also to consider is that the valve was not staying in locked position for many miles, even when it could get to spec, and would end up too tight prematurely.
maybe the valve was hitting something and getting pushed up?
also i'm trying to visualize what shaving down the threads would do, using attached image, but still get confused...
when everything is working as should, does adjusting the top not effectively lengthen or shorten the valve in terms of length to the rocker arm and lobe?
or would shaving down a few threads change the valve length, so that it might not push into the combustion chamber as much on the exhaust stroke...?
or maybe not pull all the way to get a proper seal on the combustion chamber...?
__________________
w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
looking for biodiesel in nyc
|