took it for its first real drive today today after finishing the wheel bearings. BOTH sides outboards were trashed. what is interesting is that these looked like somewhat new, FAG - made in Germany bearings that were possibly put in with what looks like recent brake discs and pads. but an oaf had installed them, buggering up the bearing lands by driving a punch into not the bearing race but ledge of the land. then strong grind marks, way deeper than needed, to dress up the sidewall where the punch had also raised metal. so MY guess is that these high quality, somewhat recent bearings were set with the wrong preload. plenty of grease remained but the small bearing was running HOT and disintegrating.

i set my preload with a dial indicator and found the process fast and easy. the slightest amount of perceptible in-out shake was too much for the .0004-7" spec. but the spec was repeatable and if the nut was tightened too much, the clearance went away to zero. but i could NOT feel the .0004-7 as any sort of play.

back to the drive... what a great machine! surprisingly peppy, tho i've tweaked the ALDA screw about 3/4 turn counterclockwise. nice acceleration left at 70mph. it's sort of a primitive, bare bones car compared to modern and i like that. mechanical and analog control, things a mortal can fix over the long run.

some additional fixin' to be done... the aux water pump is not operational but at 12K ohms, not shorted either so i don't think that's what burned traces on my heater controller. i'd replaced the OEM monovalve that had a torn diaphragm with a $13 Uro. absolutely no heat with the Uro so i superglued the diaphragm rip on the MB one and put it back in.. heat again. have loose alternator belts and discovered the L shaped adjuster bolt is now just a bolt and the adjuster nut is missing. turn signals don't cancel and no heat to the floor on driver or passenger side. all tips appreciated.

-dan