Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300
Your silver box behind the glove box is likely bad. If the vents open at all under any circumstance, you likely don't have vacuum issues. The other possibility is bad vacuum pods on the recirculate flap (feel for air leakage through the defrost vent).
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Whoa hold on there not so fast. I’ve changed center vent vac pods in both my 123 and 126. They were bad. Wait, oops sorry Diseasal, that’s what you just said.
Agreed the silver box can also be bad too...but test, don’t guess. On the 123 take off the HVAC button panel and get access to the switchover valves and manually vacuum each flap actuator with a mityvac and observe what it does. The center vent can be seen easily with a flashlight looking in the front. The bad switchover valve coils were open and there were burns on them. Tested easily with a 12v battery or ohm meter.
I had 1) a bad silver box, 2) a leaky pod, and 3) a burned out switchover valve. Yup, all three on my 300d.
Luckily I have small hands and can reach up on the side of the glove box to get at the center vent. I had to also work from the speedometer side as well. (Take out the speedo and work from the left hand side of the vent.
But first before cutting up your wrists in there, mity vac the circuit and make 100% sure you have a leaking pod.
I have some photos of the diy tools and process in my 300d thread. Oh yeah and you also need to peel back the rubber duct work back as mentioned by shadetree. Another trick is to get the linkage holes to line up for the pin I used a mityvac to manipulate the pod. You need to pull it way back before it’ll snake up there into position.
Got a 1985 300D turbo
Post #99
And BTW I am really enjoying the blue 300d with its ice cold AC through the center vent provided by the nearly new everything. I eventually replaced everything except the evaporator to get it functioning properly. Now it’s perfect.
You can prop the center vent open with a stick. Better is putting a zip tie on the vacuum actuator and holding it back.