Ive heard the 24's were ezl killers but I haven't had that proof myself. My Siemens one failed abruptly last year and I was able to track down a bosch unit from a sl for $300. Replaced it and its been good. Interestingly enough, my alternator was intermittently dying for a week before my EZL failed, I suspect low voltage precipitated the failure.



The idea that lower voltage is causing higher current across the ignition transistor doesn't hold water to me, current decreases as voltage goes down. Less "pressure" to push the electrons across the coil, less overall power being dissipated. I'm thinking it might have been electrical noise from my failing alternator beating on the electronics in the unit but I don't know. My replacement unit has not failed yet after a year of DD.





I have one more EZL that works and still have my old siemens one for dissection/repair. I was thinking of giving the EZL a more stable life if another one fails. Move the harnesses and mount the EZL under the dash with a fan on the back of it. This will keep it from experiencing high temperature deltas literally every time you drive, especially in winter. It will also isolate the EZL away from the strut tower (i read one guy with an sl500 had his die after a pothole). I would also add a 500uF cap across power and ground at the unit to absorb noise. To top it off I thought of running the EZL's output to an aftermarket MSD ignition to take the work load off the EZL. At that point it may not even generate heat if its only being used to generate a signal. Im also wondering if my failed unit still works, ie still getting a signal to the transistor but the transistor is blown. When I have a place and garage soon I plan to open up my siemens one and poke around with a scope. Hope this posts gives you some ideas..At min replace your coil, they rarely go open circuit but their always weak and if it bleeds to primary your gonna kill an ezl. Also scope the voltage supply.

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1981 300SD 512k OM603