Ok guys. Thanks for the tips.
I went out to the garage and plumbed up my injector adapters for a quick and dirty leakdown. I just put an air quick connect on my injector adapter from the compression checker and ran it to my air source. Put it on #4.
I almost forgot how to find TDC on any cylinder other than #1 when the valve cover is on. Can’t stick a screwdriver down the injector port.
Cranked the engine around with a balloon (finger of a glove) on my adapter to find TDC compression. Locked a wrench on my power steering pump to the firewall (yep I said quick and dirty).
Slowly cranked up the air and listened intently for the hiss. The crank didn’t even turn with 60psi on the piston. (Drumroll).
Oil filler cap and crank case breather.
At least I know. #4 is gone. No sense in checking #3 and #5.
I kind of knew over the years because I saw the blowby steadily increase. Starting got a little more stubborn. It never would compression start and wouldn’t start if the glow plugs weren’t in perfect order. Also if I pulled the glowplug harness and cranked it, the cranking would sound uneven. I have to keep telling myself that this didn’t just happen yesterday...it has been happening for a long time.
The funny thing is she made and still makes crazy good power. When the turbo spins up she can climb hills like crazy. But the leakdown is like a screen door. Good sized leak at the cylinder wall. I guess it is a static vs. dynamic issue. This is probably why it idles like crap and purrs at 1000 rpm.
I tried re-ringing my 300TD when I was young and foolish. It didn’t work of course. I’m going to have to either replace the engine or sell the car off as junk. Perhaps store it at my vacant home in Pasadena and scavenge it for parts. I owe it to my neighbors up there.
Man what a bummer.
I did see that YouTube video where the guy used a can of engine restore on his diesel tractor and bumped up the compression. Unbelievable. I may buy a can tomorrow when I’m out at Walmart. Go CSL! I have nothing to lose at this point.
There’s also setting my idle at 1000rpm.
Man what a bummer. Oh I just said that.
Any tips on locating and testing a donor?
How do you verify it’s a good engine when you’re buying a pull? How do you find one other than Craigslist or eBay? (I am totally green on this).
I’m thinking it might be good to buy some beater 300D that runs okay, compression test it then pull the engine. My wife is going to kill me. She is jumping up and down right now that I may possibly buy a new car.