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Old 11-18-2020, 10:57 AM
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Diesel911 Diesel911 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beirut Brit View Post
I assume we#re talking about the ol Indian rope trick. I did it myself on a gasoline six cylinder 300E. Here's wht i can share with you.



To anyone who's done this:

1.)Say I'm on cylinder one. I move the cylinder up to it's highest point. Am I now clear to service both intake and exhaust valves? I'm assuming yes, but again, don't want to drop a valve.

If you have stuffed the maximum amount of nylon chord into the pot and you turn the crankshaft so the piston rises, you will feel it when the piston pushes hard against the chord and can't go anywhere. Don't be too scared. its pretty elimentary.



2.) How does one confirm that the cylinder is at its highest point? I imagine the crankshaft dial is what gives this info in terms of degrees? What's the math?

You will just feel it as i explained in point #1


3.) I start at cylinder one -do I then follow the firing order?

No. No need. If you want to, by all means do, but the point is htat you're looking for both valves to be i nthe closed position, which means TDC on the firing stroke

4.) Anything else I should know? I've found the torque values for the rocker arms, the rest seems to be setting the valves again once everything's been replaced.

Be careful with the chord. it has a habit of getting stuck when you try and pul it out. I guess it can catch somewhere. WHat i should have done is greased it to be on the safe side.

Easy job, but time consuming.

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There is a serious issue with your idea. You cannot put a cord or rope into the cylinder because there is a pre-combustion chamber that is going to block the passage.
The bottom of the pre-combustion chamber only has small about 1/16th of an inch holes in it.

Pulling out one pre-combustion chamber means removing the Injector and the Glow Plug and the pre-combustion chamber retaining ring needs a special tool to remove it and you also need a special tool to pull out the pre-combustion chamber.
To assemble it you will need one of the special tools and a torque wrench that goes up to 180 Nm an new seal ring for the pre-chamber and a new heat shield for the Injectors.

So you can do all of that on each cylinder in order to get a rope inside of it or you can just rotate the engine till the intake and exhaust cam lobes on the cylinder you want to adjust the valves on form a "V" shape that is straight up.
That tells you are are at TDC or very close it. That is what I did when I changed my Valve Stem Seals and it worked fine.
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