Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1
You install the striker and lightly snug two screws, sit on a mile crate or kneel (young folks) next to the door so you can peer in at the striker and latch, slowly close the door but by bit, adjust the striker as necessary so the pointer enters the round hole as centrally as possible ~ once this is done, open the door wide and tighten two striker screws diagonally, try to close the door .
If it shuts and latches, you're golden, carefully open it and tighten all four screws as tight as you can .
If not, try again ~ it takes a little practice and looking in with your eyes level with the latch point and striker is critical .
Yes, the striker has plenty of movement up, down, in and out .
The trick is to get it Just So then close (not slam) the door to test the alignment but not shift the striker .
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Yes, I’ve done all of this. Not sure how D911 is gonna do it, but just because it closes and latches, doesn’t make it “right”. Plus, not all of the rubber bushings inside of the strike plate are created equally. I’ve adjusted mine many times using cheap bushings, but it still won’t close and seal like the original MBZ strike plate. For such a simple part, I could never figure out the cause. JY bushings are probably better than new Chinesium in this case