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Old 01-20-2021, 09:07 PM
DLK DLK is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Canada
Posts: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Good that you are turning it thru the center as you adjust, since the tightest point should be in the center. You do know that you back out the sector adjustment nut to tighten it? I am still looking for a junkyard box which isn't showing the max 7 threads on the adjuster. Seems all are worn now. I expect that you should first tighten the input shaft. That is true on 1960's Chrysler gearboxes I have refreshed. They have a big axial nut you tighten with a special wrench (or hammer and chisel) to take most play out of the input shaft. Only then do you adjust the sector shaft. I haven't played much with my M-B gearboxes.
The input shaft torque after the adjustment was about 20 Ncm, which is within the spec (5...50 Ncm). Honestly, I don't really see how the torque value of the input nut can influence the dynamics of the output shaft. After giving it another thought and talking to a couple of people, I tend to conclude that the gears (mesh) are more worn in the middle than at the ends. I.e. the gear is at the end of its life.

The strange thing is that reportedly, this box came from the car with a mileage of about 170K, which should be no issue for these cars.

I'm still debating if I should through it in the garbage or try and use it despite the condition. As I said, there is no obvious play. It's just that the torque diagram is kind-of upside down. I.e. If I make the center up to spec, it binds at sides. If I set it to the same spec at the sides, the torque is lower in the center.
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