Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D
"I want to learn and invest as much as I can afford"?
How much money ya got and how smart do ya wanna be? 
Learning to re-paint properly is an expensive and time consuming ordeal. Between the compressor, water separator, guns, CORRECT PPE, mixing/measuring equipment, tarps, tapes, sanders, etc. you'll be in well over a grand not to mention clean-up, prep and possible environment/health hazards.
If you decide you absolutely MUST learn to paint then I'd suggest you purchase a turbine spray rig. If the turbine rigs were available at the costs they are now, I can assure you I'd still be allowed to paint. Doctors, my wife and lung problems put the kibosh on that activity for me  .
The Fuji Semi-Pro rig is a good entry level prospect and there are several other companies with similar set-ups.
Here's a good read:
https://www.restore-an-old-car.com/best-hvlp-turbine-for-automotive.html |
Thanks Mike,
Yes these are wise words and I appreciate it very much ('expensive and time consuming ordeal').
I am driven by my actual W126 window frame project (I need to get the glass back in) and I must admit that I am not quite
ready to go at the moment even though I like the idea with the turbine rick a lot in order to skip all the questions about my poor compressor set up (which clearly needed to be upgraded 2 or 3 steps in order to serve a HVHP gun.
I short I'll need more time in order to digest and so I am feeling I am back to zero with a rattle can solution for the window frame which is not very visible after the glass is installed.
But for a trunk lid project and others are coming up (next yeear) and I'd need the turbine rick.
Mike I am not sure if the Fuji Semi Pro rig is sufficient for the size of the trunk lid?
Do you think the small rig can do this properly?
For the window frame: I am taking your advise and get a 2K epoxy prime rattle can. And I'll get a rattle can 040 base coat and clear coat.
My idea now for the situation is:
I have used KBS rust seal system on the sheet metal after welding
Now I want to roughen the surface with sand paper and use Bondo in order to create good bond with the rust seal?
Or would you better clean the surfaces and then use the 2K primer, then bondo over it?
Then use the 2K primer and base coat, then clear coat.
How many coats with each (primer, base and clear)
Would this be a reasonable approach that will last?
Best, Martin