If you hear the motor running, the regulator goes "pop pop pop", and the window won't go all the way up, its a worn-out regulator.

To remove the door panel:

Unscrew lock knob.

Pry the black plastic insert out of the front edge of the door latch lever trim, and remove the phillips screw that holds the trim plate on. Be carefull not to break the plastic. Remove trim plate and plastic insert.

Remove the two phillips screws that hold the trim around the door latch on. Remove trim plate.

Unscrew the two large phillips screws under the arm rest. Catch the two aluminum trims, they will go astray.

Pull the chrome trim back at the top of the armrest and remove the screw. Arm rest will come free.

Remove wood trim at the rear of the window.

Pry the top trim at the base of the window off in an upward direction. Fits tight in the frame (this is why the wood needs to come of). Held on by three or four clips in the center.

Use a putty knife or similar tool to go around the outer edge of the panel and pry the clips out of the door. Make sure you pry on the clip and not the panel. There are three or four on the front edge, usually metal. Four along the bottom, plastic, two or three up the back edge, top one metal, I think, the others plastic. Have a care not to damage the door panel.

Panel comes free when the last clip is out.

If the plastic sheeting is damaged, replace with heavy plastic before replacing the door panel. I use 3M spray adhesive to hold it up. You only need to cut a hole for the door latch -- you can start the armrest screws right through the plastic.

Rear doors are similar except that you must pry out the window switches and unplug them, and you need to cut a hole for the switch wires if installing new plastic.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!