Torque link in the right rear is gone, get it and the one one the left replaced, or do it yourself.

Not difficult, but a PITA -- you need two 19mm wrenches, no really good way to get a ratchet on anything.

New links are from the W210 chassis, so you need a triple square 12mm driver and a "rebuild" kit and bushing kit for each side along with the link. All this is cheap.

To change:

Jack up rear of car and put on jack stands. Allow wheels to hang. Remove wheel, and find the torque link -- its the diagonal one from the upper side of the wheel carrier to the subframe. Thrust link is from bottom to front of wheel carrier.

You can tell easily, it's the one you can't get any wrenches to...

Unbolt both ends and remove link. You will have to pull it off the sleeve on the wheel carrier. Pull sleeve out of wheel carrier.

Install new short sleeve in wheel carrier hole, put bolt in link, and weasel the bolt into the wheel carrier. Tight fit, as the new bolt gives less wriggle in the link. install new bolt on the subframe side. Don't tighten either end.

Jack wheel carrier up level, then tighten bolts to proper torque (50 nM). You MUST have the links in the level position as the steel sleeve in the center is bolted down tight. All movement of the link is by the flex of the rubber bushing, so if you tighten it with the carrier hanging down, you will overstress the rubber.

Do both sides and have the alignment checked.

Sadly, you will also probably find cracked subframe mounts, bad diff mounts, and signs of wear in the rest of the links, too.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!