George:

The only real difference is the actual clearance needed. I'd certainly do them hot (60C) rather than cold if I had a shop -- doesn't take long enough to have the customer leave the car overnight.

My friend Hans tries to get cars in and out in a single day whenever he can -- diagnose and order parts, then get the car in the morning and return it that evening. Not always possible, but I'd bet he doesn't let them cool off overnight just for a valve adjust!

Oh, and for the rack bolt adjust:

Engine must be HOT, not just "not cold" -- drive it and adjust before it cools off. Put in gear and turn bolt in slowly until the idle just start to smooth out. Lock bolt, run idle up IN GEAR, then check again. Must be in gear, if you adjust in neutral, it will still shake.

If you have cold start problems, you will have to tolerate the rough idle until you need to have the IP rebuilt -- the actually problem is the spring on the OTHER end of the rack, and to get to it, the IP has to be completely disassembled and re-calibrated. Most of them never need any other work, so they shake at idle.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!